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Explore the people, places, events, achievements, struggles and stories that shaped our journey.
Movements, leaders, victories and the continuing fight for equality.
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Pioneers, champions, Negro Leagues, records, activism and excellence.
Meet the people whose lives, choices and achievements shaped the journey.
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Wilmington, North Carolina once had a thriving Black middle class and an elected interracial government. In 1898 white supremacists used violence to overthrow that government, kill Black residents and drive many others from the city.
MORE →Reflects the personal views, recollections, and perspective of the author, Mike Davis.
This is a personal recollection on the Move fire on May 13, 1985
Perpetuana was a woollen fabric made and used in early modern England and elsewhere for clothing and furnishings including bed hangings. It was lighter than broadcloth and resembled serge, some varieties had a glossy finish.[1] The name seems to advertise its long-lasting qualities.[2] A fabric called "sempiternum" or "sempiterna" for the same reason was perhaps a similar weave.[3] Like another English-made fabric "Penniston", perpetuana was used for the clothing of slaves in Jamaica and the Caribbean.[4][5]
The cloth was one of the "new draperies" first made in England at Norwich, Colchester, and Taunton in the last half of the 16th century.[6][7][8]
Perpetuana was permitted as an export to India by Charles I in 1631.[9] Large quantities of English perpetuana were shipped to Hamburg in 1640.[10] Also known as "perpets", perpetuana fabrics were made in France and Holland (Leiden). An English author in 1713 considered that the English version of the cloth had better success as an export to Spain than the French, as it was cheaper and possibly of better quality.[11] By this time, Crediton and Sandford in Devon had become centres for weaving perpetuana and other woollens.[12]
An Edinburgh tailor Patrick Nimmo supplied a doublet and socks or hose of "sad perpetuana" to the Marquess of Hamilton in 1605.[13] The account book of William Fitzwilliam of Milton Hall includes the making of two pairs of perpetuana hose trimmed with gold and silver lace around the year 1610.[14] A green perpetuana doublet was made for Richard Bagot, a son of Walter Bagot of Blithfield, in 1611.[15] Accounts for the clothes of Thomas Myddleton at Chirk Castle in 1612 include "sea-green" perpetuana.[16]
Two park keepers in Thomas Campion's entertainment at Caversham Park on 27 April 1613 for Anne of Denmark were "formally attired in green perpetuana".[17] Perpetuana was suitable for country workmen and servants. Lord William Howard of Naworth Castle bought broadcloth in November 1617 and six yards of lighter green perpetuana in June 1618 for the clothes of his servant George Armstrong.[18] In 1640, Sir William Calley of Chiseldon and Burderop Park, a retired cloth merchant, asked his steward Richard Harvey to buy "broad black perpetuana" to make suits for three servants.[19]
In February 1616, Annas Elphinstone, Countess of Sutherland, widow of John Gordon, 13th Earl of Sutherland, wrote from Dunrobin Castle to a tailor in Edinburgh, asking him to send fine and light-coloured perpetuana to make a gown for her daughter Elizabeth Gordon, soon to be Lady Frendraught.[20]
There are references to perpetuana in 17th-century drama. In Ben Jonson's Cynthia's Revels of 1600, a character Hedon suggests that courtiers should wear silks rather than perpetuana, and the gentleman ushers of the court ought to exclude such tough "terrible coarse rags" and "rubbing devices" from the royal presence.[21] Perpetuana was the name of a character in John Marston's 1599 play Histriomastix, (at first) the wife of a merchant "Velure", a French word for velvet.[22] A textile-based insult in Barnabe Barnes' The Devil's Charter of 1607 has the alliterative "My perpetuana pander". Black perpetuana was used to make a costume for a madman in Thomas Campion's Masque of Lords and Honourable Maids, performed at the wedding of Princess Elizabeth and Frederick V of the Palatinate.[23]
Despite negative associations presented on the stage, perpetuana was chosen for warm winter clothes and bed curtains by aristocrats. In 1606, William Cavendish, a son of Bess of Hardwick, bought a suit of green perpetuana for his teenage son, also William Cavendish.[24] There were four perpetuana beds decorated with lace with matching chairs and stools at Petworth House in 1635.[25] In 1639 at Gosfield Hall in Essex there was a French (style) bed of green perpetuana, and a red perpetuana bed in a nursery.[26] Henrietta Maria owned some crimson damask window curtains lined with red perpetuana.[27] Blue perpetuana hangings and a blue perpetuana bed at Ham House were trimmed with gilt Spanish leather.[28]
Green perpetuana was used to back or "bottom" a cushion with green silk fringes for the pulpit of St Laurence's at Ludlow in 1621, and to make a decorative border for the pulpit.[29] Blue perpetuana was chosen for a new chapel screen at King's College, Cambridge in 1633.[30]
Richard Cocks an officer of the English East India Company stationed at Hirado in Japan received a bale of English perpetuana from the cargo of the Adviz in 1617.[31] Hard-wearing perpetuana was exported to America.[32] The cloth was exchanged for slaves at Ouidah in Benin and at Accra in Ghana.[33] Olfert Dapper, a 17th-century writer, mentioned that men of the Guinea Coast wore outfits made from a variety of fabrics or stuffs including perpetuana in his Description of Africa (1668).[34] West Africans rejected plain blue and black perpetuanas offered for sale in 1660, preferring brighter colours.[35] In the 18th-century clothing for slaves in Jamaica was made with perpetuana fabric.[36] Female slaves on several estates had petticoats of perpetuana.[37]
Source: Wikipedia. Article content is retrieved live through the MediaWiki API.
Perpetuana was a woollen fabric made and used in early modern England and elsewhere for clothing and furnishings including bed hangings. It was lighter than broadcloth and resembled serge, some varieties had a glossy finish. The name seems to advertise its long-lasting qualities. A fabric called "sempiternum" or "sempiterna" for the same reason was perhaps a similar weave. Like another English-made fabric "Penniston", perpetuana was used for the clothing of slaves in Jamaica and the Caribbean.
Houndstooth is a pattern of alternating light and dark checks used on fabric. It is also known as hounds tooth check, hound's tooth (and similar spellings), dogstooth, dogtooth or dog's tooth. The duotone pattern is characterized by a tessellation of light and dark solid checks alternating with light-and-dark diagonally-striped checks—similar in pattern to gingham plaid but with diagonally-striped squares in place of gingham's blended-tone squares. Traditionally, houndstooth uses black and white, although other contrasting colour combinations may be used.
Melton cloth, woven in a twill form and traditionally made of wool, is a very solid cloth whose finishing processes completely conceal the twill weave pattern. It is thick, because of having been well fulled, which gives it a felt-like smooth surface, and is napped and very closely sheared. Melton is similar to Mackinaw cloth. Because of its dense, quasi-felted texture it frays minimally or not at all. It is hard-wearing and wind- and weather-resistant. Its main use is for heavy outer garments and coats and for blankets. In lighter weights melton cloth is traditionally used for lining the underside of jacket collars. It was developed in the Leicestershire town of Melton Mowbray, from which it derives its name. This town is the traditional centre of English fox-hunting, and black and scarlet hunting coats are traditionally made from melton cloth, for its weatherproof qualities. In England not only is melton used for the scarlet hunting coat, an iconic symbol of the upper-class elite, but it is also used in black for the donkey jacket, an iconic symbol of the working class labouring man. Both uses rely on its weatherproof qualities. Melton cloth is also used as the covering for real (as against lawn) tennis balls. Queen Victoria commissioned curtains made of Melton cloth for Windsor Castle, the curtains being made by the Leeds textile manufacturing firm William Lupton and Co.
Nylon is a family of synthetic polymers characterized by amide linkages, typically connecting aliphatic or semi-aromatic groups. Nylons are generally brownish in color and can possess a soft texture, with some varieties exhibiting a silk-like appearance. As thermoplastics, nylons can be melt-processed into fibers, films, and diverse shapes. The properties of nylons are often modified by blending with a variety of additives. Numerous types of nylon are available. One family, designated nylon-XY, is derived from diamines and dicarboxylic acids of carbon chain lengths X and Y, respectively. An important example is nylon-6,6 ((−C(O)(CH2)4C(O)−NH(CH2)6NH−)n). Another family, designated nylon-Z, is derived from aminocarboxylic acids with carbon chain length Z. An example is nylon-[6]. Nylon polymers have extensive commercial applications, including uses in textiles and fibers (such as apparel, flooring and rubber reinforcement), molded components for automotive and electrical equipment, and films (mostly for food packaging).
Before the 1921 destruction of Tulsa’s Greenwood District, Black residents had created a remarkable center of business and community life. The district included stores, professional offices, entertainment venues and homes owned by Black citizens. Understanding Greenwood means learning what was built—not only what was burned.
MORE →Madam C.J. Walker