Explore Black History

ca.1895

A brown bodice and skirt made of novelty fabric with green silk trim. The dress was originally made in the 1890s but it has been reworked later. The bodice (a) is made from a silk wool blended novelty weave with black and multicolored silk thread woven throughout. The neckline has a detachable high neck band collar made of green silk satin on the bias and two bands of self-fabric gathered trim. A band of cotton canvas interfacing is placed between the exterior fabric and self-facing. The collar is tacked to the rounded neckline at two points at the proper left and closes in the center back with three metal hooks and eyes. The yoke is made of green silk satin on the bias with a band of self-fabric gathered trim which connects to the proper left shoulder with two metal hooks and eyes. The yoke is covered with metallic embroidery and iridescent green and blue glass beans in floral motifs. Synthetic black lace is hand stitched underneath the self-fabric gathered trim. The gigot sleeves are divided into two sections, both of which are made of two panels of fabric. Gathering is placed at the top of the shoulder and on the seam joining both sections of the sleeve. The bottom sleeve portion is fitted to the arm and has an additional sewn on cuff that flares out and tapers inwards at the inner wrist. Two bands of self-fabric gathered trim made of the same silk satin used on the collar and yoke are sewn to the cuffs. The bodice opens at the proper left side and is gathered along the center front, ending at the natural waist. The yoke continues onto the back mirroring what is seen at the front of the bodice. The bodice is lined with light green cotton twill fabric, the sleeves are unlined. Non-woven batting possibly lambswool is placed at the center back along the shoulder blades and at the center front along the bust between the lining and exterior fabric. Two sets of hooks and eyes are sewn at the garment's interior. The first set includes eleven alternating hooks and eyes closing the inner bodice fastener made of the lining. The second set of eight hooks and eyes runs down the proper left front opening to secure the garment's exterior closed. Four metal eyes are sewn to the bottom of the bodice which match up hooks found on the skirt. Ten pieces of metal boning covered in cotton are set into each seam at the bodice, excluding the bust darts.
The matching skirt (b) is made of the same novelty woven fabric as the bodice. The skirt is fitted at the natural waist, the waistband uses the fabric’s selvage. Four metal hooks are sewn to the waistband matching those found on the bodice. Two flaps start at the waistline along the center front of the skirt and end in rounded edges at the hemline. These flaps are finished with strips of green synthetic self-fabric gathered trim. This trim is machine stitched and was a later addition of the skirt. The rounded flaps are sewn to the front of the skirt which are finished with a rolled hem. An added band of the same novelty weave fabric is sewn six inches above the hemline. This band is finished with the same green trim used throughout the rest of the ensemble. The bottom of the skirt’s hem, hidden by the added band is finished with green cut pile cord. The back of the dress closes in the center back with one metal eye and two hooks. A twelve inch placket is sewn along the center back opening. The skirt is gathered on each side of the center back slit. The dress is lined with black waxed or glazed cotton and the waist is lined with a tan glazed cotton. Three hanger loops, one at the center front and two at the sides are tacked to the skirt’s interior.

This project received Federal support from the Smithsonian American Women’s History Initiative Pool, administered by the Smithsonian American Women’s History Museum.

National Museum of African American History and Culture Collection

Black Fashion Museum Collection

Clothing - Fashion and Historical

Collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture, Gift of the Black Fashion Museum founded by Lois K. Alexander-Lane

National Museum of African American History and Culture

2007.3.192ab

ensembles (costume)
bodices
skirts

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silk wool blended fabric, silk satin trim, metal thread, glass beads, cotton canvas, metal boning, and metal

L x W (a. bodice): 16 × 11 in. (40.6 × 27.9 cm)
Waist: 13 in. (33 cm)
L x W (b. skirt): 41 × 12 in. (104.1 × 30.5 cm)

Object Name • Brown bodice and skirt with green silk trim

nmaahc_2007.3.192ab

NMAAHC

BROWN BODICE AND SKIRT WITH GREEN SILK TRIM

National Museum of African American History and Culture

CC0

1900s • 1890s

Clothing and dress • Fashion

Costume • Bodices • Skirts (garments) • Ensembles (costume)

Images

No Known Copyright Restrictions