Explore Black History

ca. 2007

André Leon Talley was a connoisseur of global fashion and fashion history, and one of the major fashion voices of the late-20th and early-21st centuries.
Talley was born in Washington, DC. His widowed maternal grandmother, Bennie Francis Davis raised him in Durham, NC from the time that he was two months old until he attended college at North Carolina Central University. In his memoir, Chiffon Trenches, Talley credits her as the person who taught him about luxury, even with her meager earnings as a maid working for Duke University.
In 1974, after completing his master’s degree in French Studies and while working on his doctorate, Talley left Brown University to move to New York City. He was determined to have a career in fashion and believed that New York was the launching pad—an assessment that would be proven to be correct, over time. In the same year, Diana Vreeland “hired him, without pay” to work with her at The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute. That apprenticeship provided him with a life-long friendship and mentoring relationship with Vreeland. And it would lead him to work for Andy Warhol, at his NYC Factory and then at the artist’s Interview magazine.
He worked at Women’s Wear Daily, where he eventually became its Paris bureau chief. Talley also worked for five years at W and later The New York Times. From 1983 to 1988, Talley worked at American Vogue as the news director until he was chosen as the creative director, (the first Black man to hold the position) at the magazine. While at Vogue, he worked closely with Anna Wintour, American Vogue’s editor-at-large. Seven years later, he was promoted to the position of editor-at-large and except for a brief return to W he remained at Vogue until 2013. He would later work as Vogue’s red-carpet correspondent, interviewing various celebrities at The Met Gala, until 2018.
While André Leon Talley advocated for diversity and inclusion in the fashion industry, his greatest impact on the fashion industry was most likely his very presence in the upper echelons of fashion journalism. It challenged the elitism and racism that often made him feel that he did not belong in those bastions of couture culture. He dreamed of a life in fashion, and he succeeded in creating that life for himself, which opened doors for other Black and brown people to enter.

Two brown monogram canvas, hard-sided train cases and a set of keys used by André Leon Talley.
.1.1: A dark brown monogram canvas hard-sided train case used by André Leon Talley. The rectangular, dark brown case features a repeated pattern of gold-colored Louis Vuitton “LV” logo, flower, and star motifs. It is trimmed in tan leather printed with the interlocking “LV” logo in black and has riveted brass corner elements. Each rivet is stamped [LOUIS VUITTON]. At the top of the case is a tan leather handle with embossed text reading [ (R) / LOUIS VUITTON / PARIS]. The handle is attached via three additional metal rivets on each side. At the front center is a brass lock plate with latch and keyhole. The latch is stamped [LV] and the lock plate is tamped [LOUIS VUITTON] and [MADE IN FRANCE]. Around the keyhole is a series of numbers. The lock plate is also attached by rivets. There are two additional brass latches, also stamped [LV] and attached via rivets, on either side of the lock plate.
.1.2a: A dark brown monogram canvas, hard-sided train case, personalized with is [André Leon Talley] painted in bright metallic gold with black outline and white shadowing at the bottom center of the back. The rectangular, dark brown case features a repeated pattern of gold-colored Louis Vuitton “LV” logo, flower, and star motifs. It is trimmed in tan leather printed with the interlocking “LV” logo in black and has riveted brass corner elements. Each rivet is stamped [LOUIS VUITTON]. At the top of the case is a tan leather handle with embossed text reading [ (R) / LOUIS VUITTON / PARIS]. The handle is attached via three additional metal rivets on each side. Attached to the handle is a matching tan leather luggage tag. Is has stitching around the border and an adjustable metal buckle. At the front center of the case is a brass lock plate with latch and keyhole. The latch is stamped [LV] and the lock plate is tamped [LOUIS VUITTON] and [MADE IN FRANCE]. Around the keyhole is [1239127 ®]. The lock plate is also attached by rivets. There are two additional brass latches, also stamped [LV] and attached via rivets, on either side of the lock plate.
.1.2bc: Accompanying the case is a gold-colored metal keyring containing two gold-colored metal keys. Each key has a wide oval-shaped opening at the top, cylindrical blades, and three small prongs at the bottom. Each key has a series of embossed numbers under the circular opening on one side. The other side of each key has embossed writing which reads [LOUIS VUITTON]. There is also a metal clasp keychain attached to the keyring. There is embossed text which reads [LOUIS VUITTON] on both sides. Attached to the keychain is a blue polyester ribbon strap (c) with golden yellow details. The two ends of the ribbon are tied in a knot near the top of the keychain with end of the fabric cut at a diagonal. The ribbon has a golden yellow border on each side of the front of the fabric and, also in golden yellow, a repeating pattern of [LOUIS VUITTON] with [LV].

National Museum of African American History and Culture Collection

Accessories and Personal Effects

Collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture

National Museum of African American History and Culture

2023.31.1.1-.2abc

suitcases

© Louis Vuitton
Permission required for use. Proper usage is the responsibility of the user.

.1.1, .1.2a (cases): canvas with lacquer, leather, brass, ink, and paint
.1.2bc (keys): metal and polyester

H x W x D (.1.1 case): 10 × 14 × 8 1/4 in. (25.4 × 35.6 × 21 cm)
H x W x D (.1.2a case): 9 1/4 × 15 1/2 × 7 in. (23.5 × 39.4 × 17.8 cm)
L x W (.1.2b keys): 15 × 1 in. (38.1 × 2.5 cm)

Object Name • Monogrammed canvas luggage cases used by André Leon Talley

nmaahc_2023.31.1.1-.2abc

NMAAHC

MONOGRAMMED CANVAS LUGGAGE CASES USED BY ANDRÉ LEON TALLEY

National Museum of African American History and Culture

CC0

2010s • 2000s

Talley, André Leon • Louis Vuitton Malletier

Description and travel • Fashion • Journalism

Images

Use Restricted